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The Missouri Breaks National Back Country Byway runs through central Montana, encompassing an area of varied geography and historical significance. Teddy Blue Abbott, a cowboy who later became a ranch owner and who wrote a book about his life, had these observations about Rocky Point in the 1880s: "There were a few stores at Rocky Point, and a saloon run by a man named Marsh, and three white women. Production then headed to Red Lodge for two weeks to complete filming, and it officially wrapped in mid-September 1975. Your next step is to plan your trip's time frame. This national monument includes an ecosystem that parallels the Upper Missouri National Wild and Scenic River through north-central Montana. The Karl Bodmer cultural landscape painting sites are found along the Missouri River. Today some historic but deteriorating structures still remain on the site, which is now on the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge operated by the U.S. The historic town of Rocky Point was on the south side of the Missouri River in Fergus County, Montana, in the Missouri Breaks. Sportsmen Elk Hunting Guide in Montana: Where and How to Harvest Your Elk Finding and Harvesting Your Montana Elk Elk are closely related to deer except they're bigger, faster, and tougher. Steamboats traveling on the Missouri would stop and buy the cords of wood to burn for fuel. See the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail landmarks and Northeast Montanas great attractions and lodging on this self-guided auto tour. Fairview He erected buildings and named the settlement "Wilder" after Amherst H. Wilder, his business associate from St. Paul, Minnesota. [4] The gold strikes in the Little Rockies (a small outlier mountain range on the eastern Montana plains) was first made as a placer gold strike in 1884, but this placer strike only lasted a few years. )[8] Despite its two stars, Missouri Breaks reportedly earned a domestic box-office gross of $14 million. South of Scobey on US 2 (within the Fort Peck Indian Reservation), includes the Wolf Point Area Museum, and the Wild Horse Stampede, one of the Wests most colorful rodeos. Added by Chris Engelsman. Visitors can also make a loop of the trip for a total length of about 80 miles. And he goes, 'Jack Nicholson! The MRB elk population range includes the Missouri River and associated breaks habitat in the southern portion of HD 621, as well as similar habitat south of the Missouri River in HD 410. On first release, Arthur Penn's 1976 Western found itself derided as an addled, self-indulgent folly. One of the more attractive features of the Upper Missouri is that float trips of various lengths are possible. Due to its remote location in the Missouri Breaks, in the 1870s and 1880s Rocky Point became a refuge for outlaws who turned to rustling cattle and horses until rancher-vigilantes took punitive action in 1884. In 1888 Welter S. Collins was postmaster. In 1905 Margaret Frost was the postmaster at Wilder. The film was directed by Arthur Penn, with supporting performances by Randy Quaid, Harry Dean Stanton, Frederic Forrest, John McLiam, and Kathleen Lloyd in her film debut. The film was directed by Arthur Penn, with supporting performances by Randy Quaid, Harry Dean Stanton, Frederic Forrest, John McLiam, and Kathleen Lloyd in her film debut. The elk hunting in the Missouri Breaks is legendary for trophy bull elk. 17. As the incidents of horse stealing became more and more common in the area, the consensus of the surrounding ranching community was that "there were rustlers' rendezvous at the mouth of the Musselshell, at Rocky Point and at Wolf Point [in Montana Territory]".[15]. over the Judith Mountains, Scenic 2. The flat on the south side of the river near Rocky Point became one of the many wood hawk camps along the river. Harold Melniker of the Hollywood chapter of the AHA stated that the accident would not have occurred if the river bottom had first been checked. Home of the Gros Ventre and Assiniboine Tribes, the agency headquarters are west of Malta on US 2. Overall whitetail numbers should be stable to increasing across the region, and hunters should see a fair number of bucks this fall due to three years of solid recruitment. When the vigilantes arrived at Rocky Point the men were not there but had crossed over to the north side of the river. The store was run by R.A. Richie, and a 40-by-90-foot (12m 27m) warehouse was run by M.F. The D-Y trail is an all-season gravel road. In 1871 fugitives from an Indian encounter sought refuge at a woodchopper's cabin there. The Byway consists of gravel roads and unimproved roads that become totally impassable when wet. Wibaux After 1900 homesteaders began to arrive in greater numbers on the eastern Montana prairie. Elk habitat on the . During the election of 1878 there was a polling place at Rocky Point. Once the campfire goes dark and Clayton falls asleep, Logan sneaks into his camp and slits his throat. Steamboats had to get up to Ft. Benton on the spring rise in the Missouri River flow, caused by the outflow of snowmelt from the mountains. Large ranches developed, based on a deeded "homeplace" located along water courses, but with the grazing cattle on adjacent broad stretches of public lands, referred to as "open range". Logan and his gang then buy a small farm close to Braxton's ranch with money they stole during a train robbery, and begin rustling his stock. Both the National and Billings Humane Societies alleged that Jug drowned after being bound, strapped, and dragged through the water. This area lay on the margins of several territorial counties and was thus remote from any county seat. [5] Representatives from both the local and national AHA requested access to the set, but were told by the producers the set was closed to visitors, without exception. With the discovery of gold in the Montana Territory in the early 1860s, the Missouri River became the main thoroughfare by which passengers and freight, particularly bulky freight, was moved by steamboats between the gold fields in the territory and the "states". The infamous Kid Curry, a high-ranking member of Butch Cassidy's Wild . [10], In M. Night Shyamalan's 2021 film Old, Rufus Sewell's character repeatedly asks the other characters if they remember the title of a film that starred Marlon Brando and Jack Nicholson. As long as Rocky Point was used as a Missouri River crossing point in the breaks, the ferry continued, from the 1880s to the late 1920s.[3]. Knox Ridge Boaters have a choice of launching at Fort Benton, Loma, Coal Banks Landing, Judith Landing or Stafford Ferry. MISSOURI RIVER BREAKS WORKING CATTLE RANCH FOR SALE IN NORTH CENTRAL MONTANA Amongst the Little Rocky Mountains of Montana, immersed deep in the Western landscape, lies a breathtaking property for sale The Schwenke Ranch. Brando said "I always wondered why in the history of lethal weapons no one invented that particular one. From Fort Benton to the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge, the monument spans 149 miles of the Upper Missouri River, the adjacent Breaks country, and portions of Arrow Creek, Antelope Creek, and the Judith River. The score was composed by John Williams . if you would like to use any of these photos for online or offline use. I had seen many kinds of sticky mud in my life, but nothing to equal this. A large rancher trailing a herd to the ford at Rocky Point during a drought had this experience: "At last we were nearing the Missouri River, intending to cross at Rocky Point. The title of the film refers to a forlorn and very rugged area of north-central Montana, where over eons, the Missouri River has made countless deep cuts or "breaks" in the land. By the end of August, Brando had completed filming and left Montana. When the clay dirt of the Missouri Breaks becomes wet, it first becomes slick then it becomes sticky and clumps up around any surface that comes in contact with it. Buffalo hides had a market because they were used for belting for industrial machines. Although the description by Charles Siringo quoted above of the difficulties with sticky mud in the breaks is over a hundred years old, it is still applicable. Called "The Breaks" by locals, it is a series of badland areas characterized by rock outcroppings, . The migrating herds established trails from the broad grassy plains on the north and south of the river, down through the breaks to the site of Rocky Point.[1]. Elma M. Webb took over the Wilder post office on November 4, 1920. In 1886 there were 53 votes in the election and the judges were Richie, the postmaster, Tyler, a store owner and ferry operator, and Pike Landusky, a miner and bar owner and generally colorful character.[13]. plan your trip with our Today, its quieter passages resonate more satisfyingly, while its lunatic take on a decadent, dying frontier seems oddly appropriatePerhaps for the last time, there is a whiff of method to (Brando's) madness. A narrow-gauge car was lost for a week while en route from Chama, New Mexico to Harrison, Montana, which arrived after being held in Salt Lake City, Utah for interstate transportation permits. Commercial hunters in the vicinity of Rocky Point brought their hides down to the steamboat landing, where a middlemanusually a local merchantbought the hides and then shipped them east by steamboat. In order to perform this action you have to login, Choose your cause and enter an email address and a message, Community PartnersLewistown Hoteliers TBIDLewistown Area ChamberLewistown Downtown AssocCity of LewistownFergus CountyFergus County Port AuthoritySnowy Mountain DevelopmentLewistown Municipal AirportLewistown News ArgusKXLO-KLCM, Event PartnersCentral Montana FairLewistown Art CenterMontana Bright Country NightsMontana Chokecherry JamMontana Chokecherry FestivalMontana Cowboy Poetry GatheringMontana Dinner TrainMontana's Longest TableMontana North Pole AdventureMontana Winter Fair, https://www.enjoylewistown.com/media/com_jbusinessdirectory/pictures/companies/307/missouriBreaks-1591762099.jpg, Upper Missouri River Breaks Nat'l Monument. No power on earth could stop the poor thirsty beasts; bellowing and lowing they ran pell-mell for the water, with the cowboys in hot pursuit. February 4, 2022 at 8:00 a.m. EST A canoe and a kayak, its passengers stopped here for lunch, are the perfect craft for exploring the Missouri Breaks. Nature worked overtime here to fashion a ruggedly spectacular landscape that was first described by Lewis and Clark as 'the Deserts of America.' From downtown Winifred on Highway 236, theres only one road that goes to the east, the D-Y Trail. Coming on the heels of Brando and Nicholson's Oscar-winning turns in The Godfather and One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest respectively, the film was highly anticipated, but became a notorious critical and commercial flop. Estimates of rustler casualties ran from a low of 13 to a high of 35, but probably were closer to 18 or 20. In 1888, Marsh's saloon at the Rocky Point ford burned down and he rented a building from E. C. Bartlett. The Missouri Breaks is famous for its' superb hunting. When he finally got to Rocky Point, Siringo's mare was exhausted. And there was also a woman they called Big Ox, who was one of those haybags that used to follow the buffalo camps. From Fort Benton to the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge, the monument spans 149 miles of the Upper Missouri River, the adjacent Breaks country, and portions of Arrow Creek, Antelope Creek, and the Judith River. Find incredible places and experiences that help you bring home a story through External Map: http://www.mt.blm.gov/ldo/monumentmap.htm 14. The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument contains a spectacular array of biological, geological, and historical objects of interest. The Wild and Scenic Missouri River from Fort Benton down river to the James Kipp Recreation area is the foremost component of the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail. Several historic structures still exist down along the Missouri near the site of the Missouri River ford. This provided a rocky bottom and a low-water ford. In prehistoric times, American bison trailed down through the breaks to Rocky Point to cross the river. Rustling horses was most common because horses could be driven much faster than cattle. Fredrick J. Bourdon then became postmaster, and in 1895 A. L. Monroe took the job. But, as a rough guide, the Missouri Breaks area lies to the east of Fort Benton, to the north of Winnett and to the south and west of Fort Peck Lake. During Elma Webb's tenure from 1920 to 1935, the mail came from Roy on Monday and Friday of each week.[13]. Instead, its just a convenient option that I dont recommend doing. All the families who had lived on the ranches and homesteads along the Missouri River moved away. Clayton spies on Logan with binoculars and taunts Braxton about his daughter's affair with a horse thief. and cultural destinations in your zip code and across the country. East of Jordan on MT 200 is Circle, home to the McCone County Museum. Permits to hunt the Missouri Breaks are highly sought after and the rifle permits can be very difficult to draw. Wilder was in voting precinct #30 and was a polling place from its origin until 1942, when the last election was held at the Little Crooked School house with John Mauland, Edith McNulty and Ray McNulty as judges. 19. This article is about the motion picture. 20. In 1900, Rocky Point still remained a river crossing with a ferry, an operating store and bar to serve the area. It was designated in 1976 to preserve the very values that are so abundant along the Byway. I was like 'Dad, I'm putting this in a movie if you keep talking about this.' "[8], The trail system down to the ford at Rocky Point made it a natural point to have a ferry. During low-water periods many larger boats bound for Fort Benton were forced to unload at points lower down on the river. About The Missouri Breaks National Back Country Byway traverses one of the most geologically unique and historically significant areas in Montana. The Northern Pacific Railroad completed its line through the southern portion of Montana in 1883, which severely reduced steamboat traffic to Fort Benton. The Missouri Breaks National Back Country Byway traverses one of the most geologically unique and historically significant areas in Montana. Where to find maps and float guides? Story maps use Geographic Information System (GIS) data, text, and photos to inform people about an area. In 1889 Philander D. Freese was postmaster at Wilder. River Valley in the Missouri Breaks, Another South of Jordan on MT 59 and I-94, Miles City features an 1890s-era Main Street, the Range Riders Museum, a 1900s era saloon, and the annual Bucking Horse Sale and Rodeo, plus art galleries and activities celebrating Montanas Cowboy Heritage. The Missouri Breaks National Backcountry Byway is a forty-seven mile (one-way) remote drive between Winifred, Montana, and the James Kipp Recreation Area on Highway 191. The appearance of a county sheriff or his deputy in the Breaks was a rare event, and the presence of law enforcement was nonexistent. Film Clips: Hedging Bets on 'Missouri' Deal Kilday, Gregg. In 1886 a post office was created in the Rocky Point area and given the name of Wilder, which name originated with C. A. Broadwater (see above). Rocky Point was located at a natural ford on the Missouri River. Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, "AFI Catalog of Feature Films: The First 100 Years, 18931993", "Are animals really killed in movie and TV death scenes? Float trips are an extremely popular activity along this portion of the Missouri River. Director Penn apparently made no effort to control him.[4]. The wind was from the north and cattle smelled the water and broke for it. Interpretive displays and river floating information. 9. Other lucky hunters, like me in 2004, are able to procure a cow permit which allows for hunting of antlerless elk. We are also able to offer 1-on-1 hunts, upon request. You can download the PDF map to see the route below. 13. After Siringo had started into the Missouri Breaks (which he refers to as the "Bad Lands"), he encountered the "sticky mud" of the Missouri Breaks: the sticky mud of the 'Bad Lands' was something fearful. Visitors can experience a myriad of outdoor adventures when they come to this portion of the Big Sky state. The monument designation applies only to the BLM-managed lands. At these remote locations men known as wood hawks would harvest trees from cottonwood groves along the river and stack the wood in cords along the river banks. Located in the Upper Missouri Breaks National Monument. He shoots Si as he is trying to have sex with a farmer's adulterous wife. Much of the land in this area (375,000 acres) is public land managed by the Bureau of Land . Miles City Hunting them is like hunting deer. The Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge surrounds the huge Missouri River Reservoir that is 135 miles in length, includes 1,520 miles of shoreline, and covers over one million acres. that it was an accident. Driving time is approximately 2 to 3 hours and the length of the drive is about 80 miles. [18], .mw-parser-output .geo-default,.mw-parser-output .geo-dms,.mw-parser-output .geo-dec{display:inline}.mw-parser-output .geo-nondefault,.mw-parser-output .geo-multi-punct,.mw-parser-output .geo-inline-hidden{display:none}.mw-parser-output .longitude,.mw-parser-output .latitude{white-space:nowrap}473622.54N 1082645.72W / 47.6062611N 108.4460333W / 47.6062611; -108.4460333. The Missouri River Breaks is a huge chunk of undeveloped land surrounding 150 miles of the National Wild and Scenic Upper Missouri River drainage in northcentral and northeastern Montana. View of the Missouri River, Blaze In a May 24, 1976 Time interview, Brando was revealed to have "changed the entire flavor of his characteran Irish-American bounty hunter called 'Robert E. Lee Clayton'by inventing a deadly hand weapon resembling both a harpoon and a mace that he uses to kill." [13], As long as the ferry functioned, Rocky Point remained a local gathering place. In the 1870s and 1880s, Rocky Point had a store, hotel, two saloons, a feed stable, a blacksmith shop and a ferry. In 1889 Montana became a state. The Trip. the Bend of the Missouri River, Winnett, Montana : Information & Photographs. One was Mrs. Marsh, a very nice lady who kept the eating house. Phone 1-405-219-1319 to ask questions or to book a hunt. Here my early cowboy training in the art of fancy swearing came in play, as it seemed to relieve my mind, while the mud was being scraped off my foot with a knife."[10]. 7. Zortman Coal Banks Landing BLM Visitor Center Virgelle, Signup to receive the Central Montana Email Newsletter. A Kid Curry overlook, which is associated with the famous Hole-in-the-Wall Gang (Butch Cassidy & Sundance Kid), is accessible by vehicle on the north side of the Missouri River along the Bull Creek Road.Photographers marvel at the brilliant colors of the scenic geology and topography that time and nature have etched in this national monument. The Missouri Breaks is located in central Montana and is a much coveted area to hunt private land Elk, Mule Deer and Antelope. Russell National Wildlife Refuge. Mr. Elmer Turner maintained the ferry at Rocky Point/Wilder until the winter of 1929, when he used the lumber to roof a new log shop and in another building which still stands. Thus, if you want to drive the entire Byway between Winifred and Highway 191, you will need four-wheel drive even during the summer. The Byway begins at the community of Winifred which is located 38 miles north of Lewistown on Montana Secondary 236. These ranches kept large herds of horses. You will become accustomed to wide, sweeping vistas under the big, blue Montana sky and the endless expanse of the Milky Way during these five days canoeing and four nights camping on the Missouri River. Except the mountains are bigger, the hunts can be longer, and packing them out of the mountains is tougher. None of this route is paved; portions are graveled; and its use is very weather dependent (if its rainy, dont try this drive). He also bought the ferry at the Rocky Point crossing from Tyler. The Byway northeast from Winifred to Deweese Ridge closely follows the Nez Perce National Historic Trail. On April 25,1805, the Corps of Discovery canoes and pirogues reached the confluence of the Yellowstone River with the Missouri River. 5 were here. More than 80 extras were used for area scenes; most of them were local people and children. North of Culbertson on MT 16 is where the Sioux chief Sitting Bull surrendered to the US Army. [9], As of May 2023, the film holds a 79% "fresh" rating on Rotten Tomatoes, based on 28 reviews. In short, by doing this Byway, a person comes away with bragging rights! It is part of the nation's system of National Conservation Lands administered by the BLM. Three months later James Tyler became the postmaster. The historic town of Rocky Point was on the south side of the Missouri River in Fergus County, Montana, in the Missouri Breaks.Rocky Point was located at a natural ford on the Missouri River. On US 2, this includes the Culbertson Museum. Glendive Float trips are an extremely popular activity along this portion of the Missouri River. Take Front Street to 7th and turn left. During the second week of filming in Nevada City, intermittent rain showers hit the area, which made the entire cast and crew more bedraggled than the script had depicted. According to a spokesman for the Billings Humane Society, the sheriff's investigation was unsatisfactory. [6] The Missouri River below Fort Benton has been used for recreation for as long as Montanans have turned to the out-of-doors for relaxation during their leisure time. free travel planner. All of these, together with the widely contrasting scenery, add to the charm that attracts thousands from around the nation and several foreign countries each year to central Montana and to the Upper Missouri National Wild and Scenic River. Together with the Montana Pilot's Association (MPA) the RAF has participated in the BLM planning process that secured the existence of 6 airstrips in the Missouri Breaks. Programs National Conservation Lands Montana-Dakotas FAQs Frequently Asked Questions Are boater guides available (maps)? [13], After the creation of the post office, the general community at the crossing point on the Missouri was still known as Rocky Point, but the post office was known as Wilder, and sometimes the community was also referred to as Wilder. "My mare had only traveled 30 miles, but she had carried about 75 pounds of mud across the 'Bad Lands', hence she was almost played out on arriving at Rocky Point. Much of it was filmed on location in Montana's Missouri Breaks. Lewistown Instead, the official byway runs between Winifred, Montana, and the junction with Knox Ridge Road that is located about ten miles to the west of Highway 191. The entire region was the homeland and lifeblood of American Indians. On January 17, 2001, the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument was officially added to the Department of the Interior's National Landscape Monument System. However, before the Montana legislature could take action, the 1930s depression caused all road building plans to be placed on hold. Fort Belknap Indian Reservation East of Miles City via US 12 and MT 7, Medicine Rock was a place where Native American hunting parties sought guidance during their buffalo hunts.